Lock, deadbolt and doorknob replacement

When hardware is worth replacing

Most lock problems start small. A key that needs jiggling, a knob that wobbles on its spindle, a latch that has to be pulled tight before the deadbolt will throw.

Each of these gets worse with use, and a lockset that finally seizes usually does it on the day you are locked out. Replacing hardware also makes sense after moving into a house where you do not know how many keys are out there, after a tenant moves out, or when an older knob is hard for someone with arthritis to grip.

Not every complaint means new hardware, though. A bolt that drags is often a strike plate problem, not a lock problem, and we check that first so you do not pay for parts you do not need.

Knobs versus levers

Levers open with an elbow or a closed fist, which helps when your hands are full of groceries or when grip strength is limited. Knobs are harder for small children to turn, which some families prefer on a garage or laundry door. Inside the house, passage sets have no lock, privacy sets lock with a button or turn for bedrooms and baths, and dummy sets are fixed handles for closet pairs.

Exterior entry sets lock with a key. Picking the right function for each door is the first thing we sort out when you send photos.

Measurements we confirm

• Backset: the distance from the door edge to the center of the big bore, usually 2-3/8 or 2-3/4 inches. Most new latches adjust to both.
• Bore size: the large hole for the knob or deadbolt body, commonly 2-1/8 inches.
• Door thickness: interior doors are often thinner than exterior doors, and some hardware needs an extension kit for thick doors.
• Spacing: on doors with a knob and deadbolt, the distance between the two bores matters for handlesets and some smart locks.

When those numbers match, the swap uses the existing holes. If they do not, we tell you before ordering so you can pick a set that fits.

Smart locks

Smart deadbolts replace the thumb turn side with a motor and a battery pack, and many keep a key cylinder as a backup. The door has to close easily with no push or lift, because a motor cannot pull a bolt into a strike that is out of line.

We tune the strike and the door before the smart lock goes on, set up the codes with you, and show you how the low-battery warning looks so a dead battery is never a surprise. If the lock connects to Wi-Fi, we place the bridge where it reaches the door.

Strike plates and security

The strongest deadbolt is only as good as what it locks into. Many strike plates are held by short screws that bite only into the thin door jamb. Longer screws that reach the framing behind the jamb make a door far harder to force.

We fit them where the wall allows, and we mortise the strike neatly so the bolt slides in without rubbing. A door that latches crisply also seals better against wind and dust.

Matching a whole house

Replacing every knob in a house at once gives you one finish and one key. Satin nickel, matte black and bronze are common finishes; hinges can be switched to match so the doors look finished. We label each set by room before we start, keep doors off their hinges as little as possible, and finish one room at a time so the house stays usable.

Bigger door work

A cracked door edge, a split jamb from a break-in, or a door that needs new bores in a new spot is still handyman work in most cases. A steel security door, a commercial panic bar or a gate with an electric strike is outside our scope, and we will say so after seeing photos. Related work is on our door repair page.

Interior privacy locks and emergencies

Every bathroom and bedroom privacy lever has a small emergency release on the outside, usually a pinhole or a slot. We show you where it is and leave a release tool on a hook nearby, which matters most in homes with small children or an older parent who lives with you.

Sticky keys

Graphite or a dry lock lubricant often frees a stiff cylinder. Oil attracts grit and makes it worse over time. If a key only turns with force, the cylinder or the key is worn, and a fresh key cut from the code is sometimes all it takes.

Garage entry doors

The door from the garage into the house deserves a deadbolt as good as the front door, since a garage opener can be the weak point. We fit one with long strike screws, same as an entry door.

Photo checklist