TV mounting

Mounting on different walls

On drywall, we anchor into studs. On plaster, we drill carefully to avoid cracking and still hit framing. On brick or block, we use masonry anchors in solid brick, not mortar joints.

Choosing a mount

Fixed, tilting and full-motion mounts each suit different rooms. Tell us the TV size and model, and how you want to view it, and we recommend a mount rated for the weight.

Hiding cords

We use in-wall power kits rated for the purpose, or paintable raceways when the wall cannot be opened. We do not run power cords loose inside walls.

Over a fireplace

Mounting over a fireplace is possible but heat and viewing angle matter. A pull-down mount can help.

Sound bars, shelves and accessories

Along with the TV, we can mount a sound bar under the screen, a floating shelf for a streaming box or game console, and cable covers that blend with the wall. We plan the layout before drilling so everything lines up and the cables reach.

For renters, ask your landlord about wall mounting first. We can patch the holes when you move out.

Safety and weight ratings

We check the TV's weight and VESA pattern against the mount rating and use lag bolts sized for the studs. On metal studs or thin walls we use anchors rated for the load, and we tell you if a wall cannot safely hold the TV you have in mind.

Tip-over risk

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission runs its Anchor It campaign to warn about TVs and furniture tipping onto children. Wall mounting a TV is one of the ways to remove that risk. If the TV stays on a stand, anchor both the TV and the stand to the wall.

Viewing height and placement

A common guideline is to put the center of the screen near seated eye level. Over-fireplace mounting raises the screen higher, so a tilting or pull-down mount helps. Avoid placing TVs where windows reflect on the screen at peak viewing times, and check where the power and cable outlets are before deciding.

What we need to know

• TV brand, model and size.
• Wall type: drywall, plaster, brick or tile.
• Mount type you want.
• If cords should be hidden.
• Any sound bar or devices to add.

What is outside our scope

Adding a new outlet behind the TV, or running low-voltage cable through multiple floors, is outside our scope. We mount, hide cords with rated kits, and handle the patching.

Walls in older SGV houses

Many older valley homes have plaster over wood lath or over gypsum lath. Plaster is harder than drywall and cracks if drilled carelessly. We use sharp masonry bits, tape the drill spot and locate framing before drilling.

In newer houses and additions, studs are usually 16 inches apart, but not always. Metal studs, common in some condos, need special toggle anchors rated for the load because lag bolts will not hold.

Brick and stone fireplaces need sleeve or wedge anchors set into solid brick. Mortar joints are weaker and can crumble under the load of a heavy TV, so we avoid them.

Mount types compared

• Fixed: lowest profile, best when the screen is at eye level.
• Tilting: angles down; helps when mounted higher or to cut glare.
• Full-motion: swings out and turns; good for corners or open layouts, but needs strong anchoring because of leverage.
• Pull-down: drops the screen from above a fireplace to eye level.

More questions

Can you mount in a rental? Ask the landlord first. We can patch holes later.

How long does it take? Most single TV mounts are a short visit; hidden cords and sound bars add time.

Can you remove an old mount? Yes, and patch the holes.

Shelves, art and other mounting

We hang heavy mirrors, art, shelves and closet systems with the same care as a TV. Each item gets the anchor type matched to its weight and the wall: studs where they line up, toggle bolts where they do not, and masonry anchors in brick or block. Floating shelves need a hidden bracket fastened into studs.

Mirrors over sinks and dressers are set with cleats or mirror clips sized for their weight. Picture rails in older homes can hold art without new holes, using hooks and wire.

Gallery walls take planning: lay frames on the floor, trace them on paper, tape the paper to the wall and adjust before drilling. We can set a gallery wall with consistent spacing and level lines.

Cord management options

• In-wall power kit: an outlet and inlet pair rated for in-wall use, with a cord routed inside the wall cavity.
• Low-voltage pass-through: brush plates for HDMI and network cables.
• Paintable raceway: a channel on the wall surface when the wall cannot be opened, such as brick or a plaster wall with blocking.

Running an ordinary power cord inside a wall is not allowed by electrical codes, which is why we use rated kits.

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